Ten years ago, I was sitting in a hired car, waiting for my escort to complete my currency exchange in Luxor, Egypt. I watched a woman covered in black exiting the side street and behind her a pile of garbage that reached the second-floor balcony. I thought her face was covered and she was possibly the wife of an Iman. But I realized she was covered in flies because she had taken both hands and scooped the flies by the handful to expose her face. I was mortified, so I asked the driver why she was coming out of the garbage. “She has no father, brother, son, or uncle.” He dismissively responded. As if it were an everyday occurrence, he had no concerns. When my escort returned to the car, we drove off. My mind was hysterical and racing. Maybe because I lived a very oblivious life or maybe, I was refusing to face the truth about what it means to be a middle-aged woman in today’s world.
The long and short of it is I had an American friend who had lived in Egypt for 17 years. Being newly single after 25 years of marriage, I needed a minute to breathe and figure out my future. So, at 43 years old, I had taken a school bus that I was remodeling and sold it to buy a ticket to Egypt. I have a memory that I will never forget because it gave me the drive to get an education and build
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